I'm posting in the two updates I've sent out via email, so that I can capture this journey in its entirety. I plan to update this blog as frequently as I can, so as to remember my experiences in Chittagong and elsewhere to share with friends and family, and to refer back to in the time to come.
First email sent out (June 1st):
My first two flights were mostly without incident...the food was quite good, and although my seats were cramped, I was fine. The Emirates are indeed wealthy, and I was comfortable enough. The flights were over 12 hours and 5 hours each, with a three hour layover in Dubai. The trouble started when I arrived in Dhaka--this airport is unlike anything I'd ever seen, and I was the only white face I could see. Furthermore, it was almost entirely men traveling--I have never felt so American before, and apparently Western women are fair game for blatant staring. They look at you as if you are, by virtue of not being Muslim, asking for their appraising looks as you try to hurry past. But, the real trouble ensued from no one speaking English--I hadn't been given a ticket for my flight between Dhaka and Chittagong, and there were no signs anywhere as to where I could procure one. I asked the police, and they did not understand, then finally directed me to the transit office. Then, I waited there for three hours, in hopes that someone would arrive at the GMG office (the airline I had booked). I kept asking, and being reassured, that they would show up eventually. As I'm sure you are all aware, I have no watch with which to keep track of time, nor do I have a phone to get in contact with anyone, if something went wrong. I was painfully aware of this, as I have been ever since. I was lucky enough to meet a young German, who spoke fluent English, and he helped me so much. He is used to the way of things here, he's been traveling for seven months in India and Nepal, and was able to be forceful enough (and a man, so they listened) to get someone to answer me. No one had showed up at the desk, and by this time it was 7:10pm (my flight was scheduled to depart at 7:30pm). Finally, someone told me that I had been misdirected, and that I needed to go all the way through immigration, and then to the domestic departures. I ran, terrified I would miss my flight, and was further delayed at Immigration because they questioned me about my visa. I finally got through, and ran up panting to the GMG office in departures, asking from which gate the flight departed. They laughed, and eventually communicated to me in broken English that the flight was cancelled, so I might as well catch my breath. Obviously, that wasn't very reassuring...I looked desperately around for someone to help, and eventually the manager came over and spoke decent enough English...he explained that the flight was cancelled due to technical difficulties, and that I might be able to get one in the morning. Either way, I needed to buy a new ticket for $60, and I can get a refund from orbitz later. I was really upset by this point, and told him if I was going to give him any money, he would get me on a sooner flight...basically, by bribing him, I managed to get on a flight through Biman airlines, that left at the same time. I didn't realize until the last second that this meant my bag wouldn't go through--as of right now, all I have is my carry on. The manager gave me his phone number, and grabbed my baggage slip (with the number for my bag, I think this is 222995, but I am not sure) and customs form, saying he would try to get my bag to me. I hope to ask AUW to follow up on this, as soon as the offices open, because there is little I can do without speaking Bengali. I think my bag is still in Dhaka, but they might have sent it on to Chittagong on this morning's flight. I'll keep you updated...
Anyhow, it was a good thing that I got on that flight, because it arrived around the same time I would have on the other one, and there was a driver there to meet me (only after being greatly hassled by all the taxi drivers). I have never had a more terrifying ride in my life. Everything they say about the traffic laws (or lack thereof) is true...there are no lanes, or rules like passing on the left...bicycles, motorcycles, rickshaws, weird three-wheeled mini cars, huge buses bursting with people...everything careening past on these badly kept roads, as if it's a race. The cacophany of horns serve as turn signals, and as if that weren't enough, hordes of people just walk onto the street or crowd the sides. Every second I thought we should surely hit someone, or be T-boned by the other vehicles. This place is unlike anywhere I have ever seen, and it was about a forty-five minute drive so I got to see quite a bit out the window. These little huts or shacks line the sides of the roads, and each man is crying out his wares; there is only one light for each shack, either an open flame or a single bulb. I don't have words for the sights, smells, sounds...I'll try later, but for now, I'll keep describing my night.
We finally got to AUW, around 10pm, and I was given a box holding the spiciest food I've ever tasted, and a key. No one was at the offices so late, and none of the guards or other staff speak English...I was left with no recourse to communication, other than waiting until this morning. I was let into my room, and the first two things I see are a two-inch cockroach, and a lizard on the wall. As you know, I am not really so great with bugs or amphibians...I was utterly exhausted, but scared and lonely and worried about so many things that I couldn't sleep. The light is a harsh bright white, and hurts the eyes, but I left it on all night because I was afraid of the bugs. I eventually fell into a restless sleep, waking frequently and very disoriented. Then, around 4:30 am (I think? I still don't have a watch), I was awakened by a call to prayer. Despite everything, hearing that was so beautiful. I've been up ever since, and I've been trying to find people to talk to...the cleaning staff was very sweet, and let me in to the computer room, but I didn't have a password so I couldn't access the computers. I finally found two students of the Access Academy, and they have an excellent command of English. They could see I was distraught and needed to reach my family, so one girl signed me in to the computer using her log-in. They just came back in to check on me, before going to class, and told me where to get breakfast. I hope that all the students are as welcoming, and that the administrators and Tamanna will be able to help me get my luggage and everything else figured out expediently. That brings me to the present moment...it is a little after 8am, so I should be able to figure things out in the next few hours. I'm sorry for all the worry I've caused by being unreachable, and although things started badly, at least I am safe and where I will be taken care of as well as I can be.
Second email (June 1st, evening):
Hello everyone! Well, it seems I have survived the worst. I had a great day today, actually. I was up since 4am, and it's now almost 11pm, but I had such a full day that it flew by. I got all my logistics worked out--I have a phone (the number is temporary, so I will fill you in on that more later), I exchanged money (the exchange rate is really great!), and my suitcase was sent from Dhaka and I went to the Chittagong airport to get it. I met many amazing people, and spent most of the day with Tamanna--she is really great, and incredibly helpful. She grew up mostly in the US, so can understand a lot of the culture clashes I've been experiencing. She even took me to the airport so that she could help me get my suitcase (English is certainly not great around here, so having her speak bengali was great) even though it ended up taking three hours. I've learned so much in just this one day here...the students are really brilliant, and they study such a wide range of topics, even though they are still just learning English. It also seems that I have celebrity status here, which is sweet, because they are so excited to see me--I'm the "new Access teacher." I am skeptical how much I will be able to teach them, but everyone else has high hopes, and so I am excited just to do whatever I can. There are twelve or thirteen teachers in addition to Tamanna, and I will probably help some other people with projects too. The cleaning staff are particularly nice to me, because they know I will help to teach their children. I'm especially looking forward to that, because these people are so generous and welcoming--they don't speak any English, but huge smiles greet me everywhere I go, and that says more than some vocab and pronunciation lessons. The teachers are also really great, and everyone is anxious to make me more comfortable and at home. One woman, named Tapu, has been invaluable in working out all my logistics (computer access, plug adapters, mosquito netting, etc etc). I feel so much better than I did this morning, and I think this will indeed be a good experience. I'm just glad the travel part is over for now!
Today, I also rode in a rickshaw for the first time...a terrifying experience at best, but something I'll have to get used to. Tamanna and I brought back delicious Indian food, and her roommate had cooked some other things, so I've gotten to taste a lot of different dishes all in one day. It's a good thing I like spicy food! I've been eaten alive today by mosquitos, but I hope it will get better now that I have the sprays (they were in my suitcase). I haven't gotten used to roaches yet, and they are quite awful; two inches big at the least. There was one moment when I was in the elevator, and one almost climbed up my dress before I noticed it! Then, because it was in an elevator, I had no where to run! Aside from that, I think I'll be able to get used to the rest of the conditions pretty easily. I'm staying hydrated, and I have a lot planned for the next few days...tomorrow I have a big meeting with all the teachers involved in teaching the children in the slums, and then on Saturday we will actually go there. I will also be going shopping for the shalwar kareef, the traditional garb, so that I don't stand out so much as a Westerner. I am hoping once I'm a little tan and have some of the gorgeous saris here, I'll be able to blend in and not get stared at so much.
Okay, that's all for now, I'll keep you updated though. Much love to everyone! And I'm glad I'm safe and sound again!
